Irkeshtam Pass: China-Kyrgyzstan Border Crossing

The Irkeshtam Pass is one of the most remote and difficult border crossings in the world. At an elevation of nearly 2,800 meters (9,200 feet), it connects Xinjiang — China’s most restricted province — with Kyrgyzstan. To reach the actual border, you have to pass through a heavily militarized zone on the Chinese side that stretches for over 140 kilometers and contains multiple checkpoints, armed guards, surveillance towers, and cameras. Foreigners report thorough bag checks, intense questioning, and even phone searches. Only once you clear Chinese immigration are you driven into a DMZ stretching 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) between China and Kyrgyzstan — and from there, you must walk the entire way on foot, with no shelter, no transport, no reception, and no help. Despite all these difficulties, I decided to cross via the Irkeshtam Pass into Kyrgyzstan. Of course, I read many forums and experiences from fellow travelers who had done the crossing before. Yet, I was not prepared for what actually happened — and this day would soon turn into one of the scariest of my life.