
Katherine and her husband Asa John are on a year-long bike tour across North China, typically preferring quiet villages over city nightlife. However, in the tinier and more obscure the place, the more they're captivated by the local night scene. Today's journey begins 80 kilometers down the road in Helong, a small city near the North Korean and Russian borders, where locals often mistake Katherine for being Russian.
In Helong, they meet a man biking to Tibet in a monkey outfit, inspired by the Chinese legend 'Journey to the West.' The next morning, they head toward Changbai Mountain, one of China's most famous scenic mountains shared with North Korea. Along the way, they encounter a friendly vendor giving away free fruit, a cultural contrast to the US where declining an offer is taken at face value.
The route takes them through uninhabited mountains, with brief stops at tucked-away villages visible only by checking a map. At one point, signs warn of tigers still roaming the area. They also stop at a deer farm and try venison dumplings, a rare dish in China where hunting is banned and apex predators roam freely.
Katherine and Asa John arrive in the tiny town of Songjiang, their last stop before Changbai Mountain. The hotel has a quirky, homestay vibe with a lobby full of alcohol, two fish tanks, and a washing machine. After dinner, they explore the town's surprisingly lively night market, complete with gummies, a mysterious sugar drink, mobile karaoke booths for 5 RMB, two bouncy castles, a paint-your-own-clay-piggy-bank zone, and a sand pit—far more entertainment for children than Katherine ever had in her hometown.
A drunk local tries to take a photo but forgets how to use his phone. They pop into an overly decorated grocery store with lights and fake orchids, then a 'grocery store' that turns out to be a hellscape of overconsumption filled with bizarre toys, including a syringe bubble popper and a lottery ticket in a plastic pig that requires smashing with a hammer.
The next morning, they head to Changbai Mountain, encountering their monkey-outfitted friend for the third time. At the mountain, Katherine observes hot springs with a strong sulfur smell and people flinging coins for good luck. She reflects on tiger territory, saying goodbye to Jilin province, and then boards a train to Dalian to begin biking from the coast to the grasslands of Inner Mongolia.
FAQs (From the traveler's perspective)
- Q: What are the odds of meeting another long-distance biker in a tiny town?
- A: Pretty high when you're going the same direction and they're slower than you. We met the same guy three times!
- Q: What was the most surprising thing in the night market?
- A: Probably the plastic pig lottery ticket you have to smash with a hammer, plus a syringe bubble popper toy.
- Q: Is there a lot of entertainment for kids in small Chinese towns?
- A: Yes, there are more kids' activities than in my hometown: bouncy castles, paint-your-own piggy banks, sand pits, and karaoke for just for 5 RMB.